London – We began our evening at The Donovan Bar with a sparkling toast – the Sgroppino cocktail, a crisp and citrusy prelude that set the tone for what would become an unforgettable culinary voyage. Served alongside generous shavings of Parmesan cheese and a bowl of plump green olives, it was an elegant, Italian-inflected beginning that blended refinement with warmth.
Tucked within the storied walls of Brown’s Hotel – a true Mayfair landmark where history, hospitality and elegance meet – the setting added a quiet grandeur to the evening. With its art-filled corridors, timeless charm, and impeccable service, Brown’s provided the ideal backdrop for this celebration of coastal cuisine.
What followed was a seafood tasting that embodied the Tonks family’s culinary ethos: seasonal, sustainable, and profoundly respectful of the sea. Each dish spoke of provenance, simplicity, and the intergenerational spirit behind The Seahorse in Dartmouth.
We started with the Line Caught Sea Bass Crudo – paper-thin slices of wild sea bass brightened by calamanzi, ginger, pink pepper and olive oil. Paired with the Bellini Colada, a frozen, tropical riff on the Venetian classic, it danced delicately between acidity and sweetness.
The Spider Crab with Radish, Lemon & Celery followed – a fresh and understated celebration of Start Bay’s finest. Its companion, the Highball 24, brought sparkling clarity and floral lift, offering a clean contrast to the crab’s oceanic sweetness.
The Scampi con Saor, a tribute to Venetian cicchetti, came layered with langoustine tails, marinated onions, and pistachios. It was wonderfully balanced with the Dolce Negroni, a mellow and tropical twist on the classic – familiar, yet intriguingly new.
The standout for richness and depth was the Baked Scallop with White Port & Garlic. Served in its shell, swimming in butter, anchovy, and port, it was a dish of bold flavour and indulgent pleasure. The Marimo Martini, dry and saline with notes of seaweed and Fino Sherry, offered a precise, bracing contrast.
Finally, the Seppia Fritti delivered both comfort and craft – crisp morsels of cuttlefish, braised in ink and herbs, and served in feather-light batter. It paired beautifully with the Champagne à Pois, a zesty, floral reimagining of the classic Champagne cocktail.
This summer residency is more than a menu – it’s a meeting point between heritage and innovation, between coastal memories and Mayfair sophistication. With Mitch and Ben Tonks bringing the legacy of The Seahorse to Brown’s Hotel, and bespoke cocktail pairings curated by Salvatore Calabrese and Federico Pavan, the experience is as polished as it is heartfelt.
Whether you’re a seafood devotee or simply in search of a story well told through food and drink, this is a journey worth taking – no need to leave London.
Visit: Brown’s Hotel